MEET GELJE SHERPA
World-renowned high altitude mountaineer and youngest person to summit K2 in winter
Recognised in Nepal and beyond as one of the world’s most successful mountaineers, the list of accolades that Gelje Sherpa holds is outstanding:
- 40 summits of the world’s 14 highest peaks (all over 8,000 metres)
- 8x summits of the world’s tallest mountain, Mount Everest
- Highest ever solo rescue on Everest
- Youngest person to climb K2 in winter
- Opened a route on the Nepal side of Cho Oyu, including having the ‘Gelje Couloir’ named after him.
Growing up in Nepal, Gelje followed his father’s footsteps to become a guide in high altitude mountaineering and climbed his first 6,400 metre peak when he was just 13 years old (against his father’s will). He worked hard to climb the ranks from kitchen boy, to porter, Icefall doctor (one of the most dangerous jobs in the world), and now mountain guide. His job quickly became his passion as he continued to pursue international summits. Along the way he has broken multiple world records, opened new routes, and started his own expedition company, AGA Adventures, alongside his partner, Adriana Brownlee.
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First winter ascent of K2
A feat not likely to be repeated in the near future, Gelje was part of a record-breaking, formative team that climbed K2 in winter for the first time. K2 is renowned as one of the world’s most challenging peaks with a death rate as high as 1 in 4. Tackling K2 in high season presents logistical and environmental challenges, with temperatures dropping as low as -10C to -20C. However, in winter, summit temperatures plunge even further from -40C to -60C. The conditions are brutal, freezing everything from clothes and ropes, to goggles and critical oxygen masks. It was thanks to the close-knit resilience and experience of the team that made this summit attempt a success.