From the rolling hills of northern Jordan to the vast, red sands of Wadi Rum, Christine Bergholdt embarked on an unforgettable 600 km journey along the Jordan Trail. Armed with resilience and curiosity, this journey was as much about endurance as it was about discovery.
Finding Sabar: The Start of an Adventure
The journey began near Umm Qais, close to the Syrian border, where I spent four days searching for the perfect companion, a donkey to help carry supplies and provide company. After much searching, a sweet brown donkey with no name was found at a market. I called him Sabar—meaning patience in Arabic, he lived up to his name, teaching me invaluable lessons along the way.
"VALLON Heron Desert sunglasses, a vital piece on the journey where protecting my eyes well against the elements, was an obvious necessity."
From the start, challenges loomed. The heat soared beyond 30°C, the terrain was tough, rocky and steep, and navigating without reliable GPS presented constant difficulties. Due to the close proximity to the war-zone Israel was jamming the GPS signal and I appeared to be constantly stuck in either Cairo or Queen Alia airport. The poorly marked trail demanded instinct, adaptation and a lot of walking in circles. Yet, amidst these struggles, Jordan’s breathtaking landscapes and the kindness of its people shone through. Every step was met with generosity, from locals offering food and shelter.
A Test of Resilience
Sabar and I trekked 250 km together, sharing countless meals, Fantas, and even a hitchhike in the back of a Hilux. But the journey was not without struggles. A sandstorm and bad visibility led to me slipping down a steep mountain side, resulting in a twisted ankle and a fractured metatarsal. Worse still, looters took advantage of the chaos, stealing some of my vital camping gear, including a sleeping bag, ID, and cash. The swift intervention of locals helped recover some of the stolen items, but the setback was significant.
"My Heron Desert glasses were stolen and recovered, played with by children, tried on by curious locals, and even sat on more than once—yet they never broke."
Faced with mounting challenges, it became clear that Sabar needed a new home. With a heavy heart, he was entrusted to a local goat farmer, ensuring he would be well cared for. Though devastated to part ways, the journey wasn’t over yet.
From Donkey to Camel: Enter Pete
Determined to continue, I made my way to Petra in search of a camel. Finding a suitable one proved difficult, with most refusing to entrust a woman with such a strong-willed and large animal, many times I was told it was impossible without a master, and a camel would never respect or listen to a woman. However, after lots of shaking heads and phone calls, I managed to find a man willing to let me try. I was instructed to pick it up at a gas station, sure enough an old man appeared with a towering male camel, despite earlier agreements for a gentler female. The original plan was to spend a day with the man to learn how to care for the camel, but without hesitation the man told the camel to lie down and waved me goodbye. We spend the next few hours figuring everything out ourselves. I didn’t understand the Arabic speaking man enough to catch the camels name so I had to come up with one, inspired by his unique vocalizations reminiscent of Peter from Family Guy he ended up being called Pete.
"My Heron Desert glasses...made me look like a heroine straight out of Mad Max."
Then began the second leg of the expedition: 270 km through the mesmerizing Wadi Rum desert. Riding through the Martian-like landscapes felt surreal. Days were spent navigating the sands, while nights were shared under a sky bursting with stars. Along the way, Bedouin communities welcomed us with open arms, sharing food and stories. They were all very interested and invested in my trip across the country.
The Final Push to the Red Sea
The journey’s final stretch to Aqaba was tough. The rugged terrain forced long detours, and securing enough water for Pete became a pressing challenge. As we neared civilization, crossing highways, military checkpoints, and bustling streets tested our resolve. But finally, at long last, we reached the South Beach of Aqaba.
Collapsing onto the sand, the weight of the journey set in—relief, exhaustion, and a sense of achievement. Pete drank 20 buckets of water from a child’s sandcastle bucket, and the adventure that had started with a donkey ended with a camel, both the two greatest companions I could have wished for. As previously agreed, Pete’s original owner arrived to take him home, marking an emotional farewell. Left to reflect on the past weeks, I spent the next three days on the beach, accompanied by a stray dog that had followed us to the shore.
The Gear That Carried Me Through
As I sat on the beach in Aqaba, reflecting on the journey I had just completed, I couldn’t help but smile at the memories—the challenges, the triumphs, and the incredible moments I shared with my companions. I also got to test some incredible equipment along the way, one of them being the VALLON Heron Desert sunglasses, a vital piece on the journey where protecting my eyes well against the elements, was an obvious necessity.
My Heron Desert glasses endured everything from rocky mountain trails to relentless desert sandstorms and the salty waves of the Red Sea. They were stolen and recovered, played with by children, tried on by curious locals, and even sat on more than once—yet they never broke. They protected my eyes through every twist and turn of the adventure, and if the countless compliments were anything to go by, they also made me look like a heroine straight out of Mad Max.
This journey changed me in ways I never expected. It tested my patience, my resilience, and my ability to adapt to the unknown. It reminded me that the world is vast, unpredictable, and beautiful beyond words. And more than anything, it reinforced the truth that sometimes, all it takes is a different perspective—seeing life through a different lens—to truly appreciate the adventure.
Follow Christine's journey on Instagram: @christinebergholdt
